Radical History and Racial Dynamics of Mormon Garments
Nancy Ross and Jessica Finnigan, co-authors of Mormon Garments, Sacred and Secret dive into the unexpected history and sociological complexities of LDS temple garments. From Joseph Smith’s early design demands to the modern realities of race and garment surveillance, this episode uncovers the fascinating evolution of this deeply personal practice.
https://youtu.be/_Rt8-TabB-U
Mormon Garments Radical, Seamless Origin
The conversation travels back to Nauvoo in the 1840s, where Joseph Smith first commissioned seamstress Elizabeth Warren Allred to create a garment with as few seams as possible. Because standard 19th-century clothing relied heavily on seams to economically fit the shape of a body, Allred had to cut the unyielding muslin fabric three times before meeting his specifications.
The authors debunk a popular historical myth: Joseph Smith was not simply adopting the “union suit,” as that style of single-piece underwear wasn’t developed until decades later. Instead, Smith’s design was actually a radical, progressive departure from the standard underwear of the time, anticipating later 19th-century dress and health reform movements that advocated for fewer restrictive layers.
Making Sense of the Data: 12 Years and French Philosophy
Transforming their massive 2014 survey into a book was a grueling 12-year process. Ross and Finnigan realized their raw data was far too messy and complex to neatly fit into a few journal articles. To make meaning of the thousands of intimate stories, they utilized intersectional theory (a branch of critical race theory) to understand how the disadvantages of racism and sexism impact wearers.
They also drew heavily on French philosopher Michel Foucault’s concept of the “panopticon” to explore how surveillance and secrecy operate within Mormon culture, illustrating how members internalize institutional rules to monitor themselves and others. Despite utilizing heavy academic frameworks, the authors worked diligently to weave the theory naturally into the text, ensuring the book remains highly approachable and relatable for everyday readers.
Politics of White Underwear
One of the most striking sociological discussions in the episode centers on race. The authors explicitly identify the race of their survey respondents to highlight how garments interact differently with non-white bodies. For instance, wearing stark white underclothing makes the garments highly visible against darker skin tones. Furthermore, the historical design choices for garments were largely patterned after European body shapes, creating distinct physical challenges for people of color, such as Pacific Islanders, whose bodies may not easily conform to those specific cuts.
The authors argue that because Mormon discourse heavily emphasizes purity and whiteness, the racial classification and physical realities of bodies wearing these garments make the practice inherently political. While their initial survey lacked a massive sample of people of color, their co-author Larissa Kano Kindred has since gathered data from 8,000 women—including a significant demographic of women of color—which will further explore these racial dynamics in future publications.
Century of Evolution
The episode wraps by looking at the slow arc of garment modernization. It wasn’t until 1923 that the church finally allowed for stretchy, knitted fabrics, shortened the sleeves to the elbow, and replaced string ties with buttons. Even then, as the church commissioned an internal report in the 1930s to suggest further popular changes, the long-requested move to sleeveless garments was left on the cutting room floor.
Don’t miss our other conversations Nancy Ross: https://gospeltangents.com/people/nancy-ross/
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0:00 History of Garments
10:32 How 3 Authors Write a Book
27:34 Racial Differences?
What do you think of the history? Had you considered all of these factors?
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